BARBECUE: SOUTHERTN STATE OF THE ART - garden barbecue grill

CRAIG claiborneyml 1984 this is a digital version of an article from The Times Print Archive, before its online publication began in 1996.To keep these articles as they appear initially, the Times will not change, edit, or update them.There are occasional copywriting errors or other problems during the digitization process.Please send a report of such issues to archid_feedback @ nytimes.com.In this country, no cooking can arouse strong opinions, heated discussions and regional sharpenism like a barbecue.Not from Chile, not from the south.Fried chicken, not chewing gum, baked beans, fruit cake and apple pie.The differences may be concentrated on the type of meat used (pork, beef or poultry) or on its cut (pork shoulder, ribs or whole pig;Sauce (vinegar with tomato as raw material or spice );Side dishes (Cole salad should be stirred with mayonnaise or barbecue sauce) or which Wood gives the best flavor (pecans and/or oak, or the nearest mesquite ).If you hit me?What kind of meat do you prefer: chopped, sliced, large?In a sandwich or a tray?If barbecue is the most controversial food in the United States, then North Carolina must be a barbecue.Controversy capiRecipes on page 6.tal.Some North Carolina believe that the only real barbecue was cooked near Lexington in the middle of the state.There are also some people who claim that, around Goldsboro town, only the barbecue "Down East" has authentic, down home and melted --in-your-mouth flavor.On a recent visit to North Carolina, I was asked to act as a sounding board for both sides of the dispute and taste the evidence.Three days later, I left with a smile on my face and a few more pounds in the middle.The first stop is the Lexington Barbecue run by Wayne Munch."I will not favor either side in this dispute ."Munk said, taking me into his office on the outskirts of the city.I will let you decide for yourself.At 11: 30 a.m. the parking lot was full.Portable mechanical pallets are locked on the doors of some cars and trucks, customers are enjoying a feast, some holding knives and forks, and others holding the sandwiches tightly with their hands.The Lexington Barbecue was advertised as similar to the decoration of other Southern barbecue sites (which no one calls a restaurant), that is, very few.But it is bright, airy and practical.Customers sit in front of the counter or at a regular wooden table, each with a napkin dispenser and an inevitable bottle of chili sauce.Fast and efficient service.I was told that some regulars come to the barbecue twice a day and many come to eat at least one meal a day seven days a week.In the work area of the kitchen, a wall is lined with a "pit" (actually brick-Lining furnace with two purposes.In some of them, pecans and oak boards are burned until they turn into hot coal.Other pits are used to cook meat.When ready, the coal is shoveled into the bottom of the cooking pit.''Mostly,'' Mr.The monk said, "I specialize in barbecues and only eat pig shoulders.As a concession to some customers, his menu also includes half a serving of roast chicken, a spicy burger and a hot dog.The traditional side dish for Lexington barbecue is Cole salad, made with the same barbecue sauce as meat --A mixture of salt, sugar, black pepper, red pepper, distilled vinegar, tomato sauce and water-Not mayonnaise.The salad can be eaten separately or placed on the meat in the sandwich.It also offers quiet puppies, small oval shapes, crispy outside and moist inside.Made with corn flour, eggs, chopped onions, water and milk, cut into hot fat with a spoon and cook until golden brown.The drinks are sweet iced tea.Mr.The monk barbecued on pecans and oak trees.Green Oak trees, he says, emit the hottest heat.Mesquite is becoming more and more popular in other parts of the country and it is not used here because it is not growing locally and the price is too expensive to import in large quantities, SirMonk explained.Before this trip, I have always thought that the barbecue needs to be kept tasting meat, fish or poultry.If not, then it's just a barbecue for me, not a barbecue.But this is not the case in the barbecue country."We don't, Mr. baste ."The monk said bluntly."We will add the sauce later.Before we put the pork on the wire rack, we season it with a little salt."The advertisement for Lexington barbecue is that the shoulders Cook for hours on the next floor of very low heat and turn.When the meat is cooked, large rectangular hard and sturdy cardboard is placed on it to prevent the ash from falling on it."Taste," Sir.The monk added, "most of it comes from smoke and most of it comes from natural drops of meat that fall on hot coal.The meat is cooked from 8 hours to 10 hours until it reaches an internal temperature of about 180 degrees.Cook 50 shoulders a day, and the weekends and holidays are about twice the number.The shrinkage of each shoulder is very large;one 15-The pound pig shoulder is only 5 pounds of lean meat.When the meat is ready to serveChop, slice, or cut into piecesThe sauce was applied.The recipe for the table sauce is similar to the recipe for the barbecue sauce, just adding more red peppers.The crispy skin of the pork is removed and then a second "treatment" is performed before serving: it is either put back on the grill to further crispy or fried for the same reason.Due to limited supply, services can only be provided on request.I also went to the other two BBQ spots, the old ones of Lexington and stamy.Greensboro's old-fashioned BBQ with first-class food, mostly like Mr.Monk's -Similar ovens, using oak and pecans as fuel, similar basic meats cooked in those brick and metal ovens.The only small change on Jimmy's restaurant menu is a delicious potato salad side dish with hardEggs, onions and pickles.In some parts of the South, this crispy skin or "crackling sound" is called Delicious.Stamey's is definitely the most luxurious BBQ place I 've ever tried.The atmosphere is usually casual, warm service and thoughtful service, but the wallpaper, blinds, wooden beams and even brick walls are very touched.Keith Stamey, one of the owners (the other two are his brother Charles C.The food similarities between the three places are not coincidental, says Stamey and Sara Hodgin's sister.Both Mr.Jimmy's monk and Jimmy Harvey started working for Mr. Jimmy.The late father of stami, C.Warner stamy, which opened in 1930.Mr.Stamey believes that his father learned barbecue cooking techniques from "an old man Swicegood" for about 1910 of the time, and he is responsible for continuing this in the Lexington area.I can't detect any differences other than the smallest of these institutions.None of them offered roast beef.In my opinion, the chicken barbecue in these three places seems to be very ordinary.BBQ ribs only appear occasionally on the menu.On the third day, I went to a small town in the East with my friends to experience the differences between the two regions.There is a difference.Our first stop was sunny, No.Scott's famous barbecue restaurant in Goldsboro.The menu there is more refined than the Lexington restaurant, with steak sandwiches, oyster platters, and many non-barbecue items on the liver of fried chicken.I was told that the latter dish was one of the favorite dishes in the community.The difference between the barbecue is that the whole pigDivide the backbone into two halves, flat on the cooking surfaceIt's not a pig shoulder.The sauce is mainly diluted with vinegar, red pepper, black pepper and water.(The difference between this and Lexington sauce is that the ketchup is omitted.) The Cole salad was made with chopped cabbage and mayonnaise instead of barbecue sauce.Traditional American specialties, Brunswick stew, are available at most East BBQ sites.It's long.Stewed beef and chicken with tomato sauce with potatoes, lima beans and corn.I talked to the boss, an amiable 42-year-The old man named Martell Scott told me that his company opened for the first time in 1917 under the ownership of his grandfather.The pork there is cooked from whole pigs or pigs (divided into two halves before cooking) at low temperaturesA gas flame that burns for four to six hours.Mr.Martell explained to me that he turned to gasoline because it was more economical.The chopped BBQ sandwich was great.The ribs are commendable.My last stop was at the Wilber restaurant in Goldsboro, a large restaurant for 315 people.The service here is considerate and the service is considerate.The pork -Cut the pig or pig in half.Cook directly on Oak Coal.All the fare from sandwiches to Cole Slough is commendable.For an experienced North Carolina BBQ enthusiast, the differences between Lexington and the Lower East Side versions may be obvious and obvious.They are slight and subtle to me, mainly sauces.Even there, there is not much difference in the Lower East Side sauce with a little tomato soup --Vinegar is a key factor in both.Shoulder vs.whole hog?There is not much difference here;In both cases, the meat is cooked long enough to soften the fork.However, I would make it clear in no uncertain terms that the chopped pork sandwiches offered in both areas of North Carolina are my favorite barbecues by far.Smoking on pecans and oak coal for a long time gives the taste of pork delicious.The tender texture of chopped pork is another advantage, and the sour taste of the sauce provides an ideal complement to it.In a bread with a little Cole salad, it is as close to perfection as a barbecue.While it's almost impossible to replicate those barbecues made by North Carolina restaurants at home, I 've already made the first one for what I thinkRate substitution.It's not as smoky as a real article, but it's coming to an end.Start with boneless roll pork tenderloin and bake for 5 hours at low temperature (500 degrees for the first 10 minutes, then down to 275 degrees) or until the meat reaches such a good temperature, softThis is the best feature of the North Carolina BBQ.It is then simply transferred to a pre-heated charcoal grill and heated with hot, smoked pecans, oak or other wood sticks.The ad chopped the meat and generously helped the bread with homemade barbecue sauce and homemade colsalo.BBQ Pork2 1/4 pounds pork tenderloin with no bones, try it with iron salt if you want fresh pepper.1.* Preheat the oven to 500 degrees.2.Rub pork gently with salt and pepper.3.* Place a shelf inside the baking tray.Bake the pork waist on the shelf for 10 minutes.4.* Reduce the oven temperature to 275 degrees immediately.Roast pork for five hours.Bake the tenderloin every hour.5.At the same time, heat the charcoal or grill.Separate two pieces of wood, such as pecans, oak, or meskey (available at the hardware store) for smoking on coal, so that they are not placed directly under the meat.Let the meat heat and smoke at the lowest temperature of about 10 minutes.Be careful that the coal or hot surface will not burn like the meat is cooked.You can even scrape the coal right below the meat to keep it away from high temperature cooking.Or if there's a doubleBurner unit, turn off the heat of one unit and put the meat here.Let the other unit continue heating.6.Pork can be served now.It can be sliced, cut and chopped.The chopped version is usually considered the best.On a platter or as a filling for a sandwich.Production: about 1 pound or more.Chopped BBQ sandwich in North Carolina 4 burger buns1 1/2 cup chopped pork BBQ (see recipe) 1/4 cup Lexington BBQ dip (seerecipe)1.* Open the buns.Scoop the chopped pork into the lower half of each bread.Advertisement2.* Dip a little barbecue with a spoon at the top of each service.3.* Top of the equal score for Cole slow.Cover the sandwich and bring it up.Output: 4 copies.Note: This is my version of Lexington and Xiadong BBQ in North Carolina.Lexington BBQ Dip1 1/2 cup distilled white or cidervinegar10 tbsp tomato ketchupSalt if you want freshly ground pepper to taste the 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper clipPut all the ingredients in a small pan and cook them.Cook, stir until the sugar is dissolved.Take it out of the heat and let it stand until it cools.Add a small amount of sauce to the barbecue and poultry.Output: about 3 cups.Note: This sauce is a bit sour.Brunswick Stew1chicken, 3 pounds, cut 1 1 1/2 pounds top round steak, cut into 1-If you want fresh pepper to taste 1/4 cups of corn, 2 cups of chopped onion 1 tablespoon chopped garlic 1 1/2 cups chopped celer1 1/2 cups chopped green pepper 1/2 teaspoon red pepper 4 cups or 5 cups of fresh or Canadian chicken 3 1/2 potatoes, about 1 pound 3 cups of corn, fresh slice ad from cob, or 2 10 cupsA pack of frozen corn kernels per ounce with 2 cups of fresh shells of small lime or 10-Pack 6 tablespoons melted butter 2 tablespoons worcestershiresauce1 tablespoon Tabasco or slouisiana chili sauce in Frankfurt per ounce.1.* Sprinkle chicken and meat with salt and pepper.2.* Heat the oil with a large and heavy frying pan and add chicken skin without crowding.Turn around and do the same thing while boiling to golden brown.Transfer to heavy casserole.3.* Add cooked meat in a frying pan, do not crowd, cook until golden brown, turn often.Turn the casserole.4.* Pour most of the fat from the frying pan and add onions, garlic, celery and green pepper.Cook, stir until withered.Add pepper slices, broth, tomatoes, passion fruit and cloves.Stir from the bottom and boil.Pour on meat and chicken.Bring to boil.5.* Cover and cook for 1 hour and occasionally stir from the bottom to prevent sticking together.6.* Take out the chicken and let the stew continue to cook and cover for about 30 minutes.When the chicken is cool enough, the skin and bones can be treated, removed and discarded, cut and spare.7.* Peel potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch cubes.There should be about 1/2 cups.Add to stew.Add corn, lima beans, shredded chicken, salt and pepper to continue cooking for 45 minutes.8.Stir in melted butter.Add Worcester County sauce and Tabasco sauce.Serve hot.Output: 14 or more.Goldsboro potato salad 6 potatoes, about 3/4 LBS salt if neededCooked eggs 1/2 cup chopped onion, preferably 1 cup of red mayonnaise (see note) 1/4 cup chopped sauerkraut.Advertisement1.* Put the potatoes in the kettle, add cold water to cover, add salt to season.When testing with a fork, boil and cook until very tender.Drain and let cool.2.* Peel potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch cubes.Put into bowl.3.* Chop the eggs and add them to the potatoes.Add onions, mayonnaise and pickles.Stir thoroughly.Output: 8 or more.Note: Although homemade mayonnaise may be used to make this potato salad and Greensboro Cole salad, most barbecue shops in North Carolina use Hailman mayonnaise.Greensboro Cole slaw1 Chinese cabbage, about 1 1/2 pound 1 1/2 cup Italian 1 cup chopped onion salt, can be tasted if you want to taste fresh pepper.1.* Remove the core of cabbage and the outer leaves that are tough or flawed.Cut the head in half and chop it up.There should be 6 cups.The chopped minced meat is placed in a mixing bowl.2.Add mayonnaise, onions, salt and pepper and stir well.Output: 6 to 12 copies.1 tablespoon white-Wine vinegar 1 tablespoon dry mustard1 egg yolk 1 cup of corn, peanuts or vegetable oil 1/4 teaspoon sugar 1 tablespoon lemon juice can be tasted if needed.1.* Mix vinegar and mustard in a mixing bowl and mix.Let's stand for 20 minutes and develop the flavor.2.* Add egg yolk and start stirring with a wire mixer.3.* Add oil gradually and stir with a mixer.Add sugar, lemon juice and salt to make it thick and smooth.If you want a more obvious taste of mustard, add a tablespoon or more of the mustard prepared commercially, preferably in Dijon style.Advertising output: about 1/4 cups.Hush puppies2 cup corn flour, preferably Yellow 1/2 cup flour2 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon sugar salt, you can taste 1/2 1/2 cups of melted butter 1 cup if you need it, chopped corn, peanuts, or vegetable oil for frying.1.* Sift together the corn flour, flour, baking powder, baking soda, sugar and salt in a mixed bowl.2.* Mix buttermilk, water, eggs and melted butter.Add dry ingredients.Stir well and add onions.Stir to blend.3.* Heat the fat to 375 degrees.Put a spoonful of the mixture into the fat, cook until golden around, and cook it thoroughly.Drainage of towels and services.Output: about 30.Find real things for those who may be traveling in North Carolina, here is the address and phone number to visit the restaurant.By New York standards, their price is very reasonable: a chopped barbecue sandwich is less than $1.50;The price of a large BBQ platter is under $4.Scott's famous barbecue restaurant is located at 1201 William Street North, Goldsboro, New York.C.919-734-0711.Open from Tuesday to Saturday at 11.M..to 8 P.M.;Rest on Sunday and Monday.East Wilber Grill on Highway 70, Goldsboro, New YorkC.919-778-Open 5218 per day, 6.M.to 9 P.M.Lexington Barbecue, 29 Road 1070 South, Lexington, New YorkC.704-249-9814 open from Monday to Saturday at 10.M.to 10 P.M.;closed Sundays.Jimmy's barbecue, 1703 cottrove Road, Lexington, New YorkC.704-352-2311.Open at 6 every day.M.to 10 P.M.Old ads for StameyVintage BBQ, Greensboro, 2206 highpoint Road, New YorkC.919-299-9888.Open from Monday to Saturday at 10.M.to 10 P.M.;closed Sundays.A version of this article appears on page C00001, national edition, April 25, 1984, with the title: barbecue: the southernmost state of art.