charcoal barbecue korean restaurant RESTAURANTS; A Midtown Korean With Downtown Verve

The fragrance of william grimesjune 11,2003 wood smoke is sweet and transparent, leaving a strong first impression at 36 bars and barbecue restaurants-a very attractive Korean barbecue restaurant.It rises from the metal basket, filled with large glowing charcoal, and is delivered to each table during the meal.Burning smoke, mixed with the aroma of beef or scallops, hissing on a copper-net Grill, has a intoxicating or even paralyzed effect on diners entering the restaurant.It caused every happy alarm on the taste of Americans, and was keenly adapted to the artistry of the grill.Like Dim Sum Go, carefully designed Chinese restaurants in Chatham Square, 36 bars and BBQ areas are taking photos for young people, compared to Korean restaurants that gather in alleys south of Macy's, hippies and more mixed customers.Glass door, jazz style, brightColored decals on glass lead to a small foyer with atomTheme chair coming out directly from "Jetsons.In the narrow dining room, the table is made of stainless steel and the chair is made of aluminum.A large stainless steel ventilated cube hangs on each table.Spray a little paint on the slagThe block wall adds color in the case of the soft chemical industryModern Aesthetics.Food and manners are still traditional.The small menu of classic Korean dishes is great, but the kitchen is different in choosing the main ingredients.The marinated beef short ribs prepared for the grill are especially tender, far from the tough, muscular strips offered by hundreds of other Korean restaurants.Sashimi-The grade tuna cut into pieces has a gem-like glow.The leaf-There is no flaw in the lettuce wrapping paper of beef, no signs of wilting or drooping.A slice of garlic that can be baked in a small tin paper cup looks like pure ivory.We may be very small, the restaurant seems to be saying, but what we do is right.The advertising menu is divided into four categories: five appetizers, a dozen barbecue options, eight steamed rice casseroles, known as bibimbap, and some spicy stews and casseroles, these stews and casseroles are taken up by an impressive, fiery, sinus-like food.Stewed tofu with kimchi.The dessert ads are more or less non-existent.Ginger, red restaurantbean and green-Tea ice cream, but in any meaningful sense, the meal is over when the last bit of burnt fish or meat is gone.Koreans introduce diversity in simple dishes, mainly by using condiments to provide contrasting textures, temperatures and spices.With the barbecue ceremony, the condiment barrage reaches its peak intensity, at least halfA dozen sweet, sour and spicy options are arranged around the grill.These include sliced pickled radish, zucchini slices in hot chili sauce, cooled pickled cabbage leaves and crispy pickled bean sprouts.A stack of leaf wrapping paper and a variety of sauces, sauces and dipping sauces take up the remaining usable desktop space around the grill.At this point, the feelings of the United States and South Korea have achieved seamless unity.The idea is to grill, smear, soak, and wrap with any and all ingredients scattered around the table, gnawing at any condiments you don't actually cram into the leaf wrap.Contrast love can be seen everywhere on the menu.Yook hwe is a Korean steak tartartare, which is a raw beef that is marinated sweetly, cut into rectangles and halfFreeze to bring exciting cold and unexpected creaking, a sound repeated on thin slices of Asian pears.On one side, a loose, slightly salty egg soup with scallions provides a warm and gentle match for the main activities.Bibimbap, which looks like a pile of undivided steamed rice with some meat, fish and vegetables in it, plays soft rice on pieces of rice that have become hard shells and come togetherSome vegetables are soft.Others, like sesame leaves and cabbage in half-mixed rice full of roast beef shredded meat, are kept a little.A dull-The fact that it sounds like a tofu salad turns out to be a bunch of frozen tofu that looks like sea bass, covered with seaweed and lit with chili sauce.It's hot, cold and salty, and that's impossible: it makes tofu look like a beef-marinated worthy competitor.Please click on the box to verify that you are not a robot.The email address is invalid.Please re-enter.You must select the newsletter you want to subscribe.View all New York Times newsletters.The giveaway salad presented before the meal is meaningless and distracts the attention of important appetizers, such as dishes --Pancake with scallions, stuffed with squid and shrimp, or stirFried glass noodles, sticky, are strong to bite.A better business card for the restaurant is warm toastRice tea served in the barThere were large and small tumbler and refills throughout the evening.Another good idea to start dining is cucumberinfused sake.Packed in a large metal pot with a long spout to make you feel refreshed at nightLong cocktails and onionsbased twin.In addition to the ban on Korean cuisine, Korean restaurants are also common.The 36-year-old waiter spoke good English and they tried to make the menu convenient.They explained that they provided advice on how things were done and they took care of the grill carefully and turned beef, shrimp and scallop slices with expert hands.They remind you that the essence of Korean food is home.It has rituals, but not rules.bound.Have, Asia flavor but have Italy flavor.The 36-year-old Bouncy and inviting have become a bright display with its solid, modest virtues.36 bar barbecue * [Score: one star] No. 5, West 36 Street;(212) 563-3737.ATMOSPHERE --Semi-The industrial decoration of the small restaurant is the background of traditional Korean cuisine.Advertising sound level--Not loud.Recommended Dishes--Scallions of squid and shrimp;Pickled beef with sesame seeds;Cold tofu salad;Spicy tofu stewed with kimchi;BBQ beef and rice;barbecued tuna.SERVICE --Very polite and friendly.WINE LIST --None.Asian beer.HOURS --From noon to midnight every dayThe upstairs bar menu is available until two in the morning.m.PRICE RANGE --Appetizers, $7 to $8;$8 to $19 for the main course;desserts, $3.CREDIT CARDS --All the main cardsWheelchair Access-No steps.Bathroom in the restaurant.The star means: (no) the difference is satisfactory * good * very good * Excellent * extraordinary rating reflects the reviewer's reaction to food, atmosphere and service and takes into account the priceMenu lists and prices may change.In the online review of the New York Times, The New York Times comments supplement the capsule review of the New York Times.We are constantly improving the quality of our text files.Please send feedback, error reports, and suggestions to archid_feedback @ nytimes.com.A version of this review was printed on page F00010 of the National edition on June 11, 2003 with the title: Restaurant;A vibrant South Korean city center.