flat plate gas grill IN QUEENS, A MEDLEY OF LATIN FLAVORS

Bryan millerjune 1,1983 this is a digital version of an article from The Times Print Archive, before its online publication began in 1996.To keep these articles as they appear initially, the Times will not change, edit, or update them.There are occasional copywriting errors or other problems during the digitization process.Please send a report of such issues to archid_feedback @ nytimes.com.A warm night was 6 and Jackson Heights was jumping.Along Roosevelt Avenue, in the shadow of the elevated train track, another school and working day in Queens is coming to an end and is celebrating with a special Latin elan.Salsa music seems to be cascading from other stores, halfMore than a dozen spirited teenagers were infected by the beat as they passed by and fell into a series of loose chaoslimbed dancing.After a while, they continued calmly to the next sidewalk ballroom.At a restaurant in Colombia, Cali Viejo, which is the size of a mass van, early diners were drifting, and some of them were attracted by the strong smell of onions, garlic and fried sweet banana rotate under the front door and set up barricades on 73d Street.In an apartment a few blocks away, Tulia Maria Casado is soaking the oxtail in a deep pot, chopping up fresh coriander while preparing a type called SankoOn the 37 th Avenue, in a narrow little butcher shop called El Tata ("Big Daddy"), the owner Pedro Tatarian is a Uruguayan and his waist is selling bloodOn the gas grill in the front window, red sausage and full sweet bread.Men from nearby chat with El Tata in the machineThen sit down and have dinner on a slender table crowded with walls.A black-and-The white TV set above the meat counter plays a football match from Madrid, where diners drink beer and raise cans and make a loud noise every time the team wins.Some streets in Jackson Heights are pretty much the same as those in Bogota, Lima, Quito or Argentina.People can walk a few blocks without hearing English words, and many of the signs in retail stores and restaurants only make symbolic concessions to the English language.A fish shop on 37 Avenue advertising bacalao (COD), cangrejo (crab) and langosta (voice recognition as "label ");Showcase a variety of exotic productsLooks like bumpy uneven green vegetable bergamot, dark and fiber yucca root, mound of bright green plantains, yellow-Green papaya and redtinged mangoes.The ads for this block are roughly made up of the east side of Brooklyn at Junction Avenue.The Queens Highway in the West, Roosevelt Avenue in the South and Central Avenue in the north are one of the most diverse areas of New York City's culture (some would say mixed ).The wave of ethnic migration often sweeps through the Bay of the city --First of all, Ireland, Italy and Jews, then Indians and EastEnders, and recent immigrants from the Caribbean, Central and South America --As a result, the local shopping tour can give visitors access to more cultures, more than a month of uninterrupted travel abroad.At least for now, the main flavor of Jackson Heights is the Latin flavor, which can be best savored by the exotic and colorful food that residents like.Latin American residents of Jackson Heights are proud of their culinary heritage and eager to introduce themselves to newcomers.They lamented that most outsiders, if they knew something about Jackson Heights, would link it to news stories about cocaine arrests and drugs --related shoot-outs.The reality, they say, is a middleman --Class communities in urban dilemmas also have many positive aspects that inspire community pride."This is a major business center for people from Central and South America," she said ."Caicedo, a Cali native of southwestern Colombia, lived in Queens for 16 years.She commutes to work in Manhattan and works as a director of Via in her spare time, a magazine published in Jackson Heights in New York's Columbia community.While Spanish-Speaking of the fact that the residents of this community come from almost every country in Central and South America, Colombia has the largest number of residents and seems to have most of the groceries and restaurants in the area.The Colombian are aggressive businessmen.Caicedo said."They like to have their own place instead of working for others."One night last week, madam.Caicedo invited some Colombian friends to her apartment for a traditional meal, including spicy beef, beef tail and Yuka soup seasoned with fresh coriander and scallions;Papas chorreadas, Cook red potatoes with tomato and queso blanco (white Colombian cheese) sauce;Coconut cake, white cheese with Brownsugar syrup."In Cali, we never let the potatoes go in sankojo, but in Bogota they always do that ."Caicedo explained when stirring the potatoesless soup.Sancocho, usually served as a main course, may be combined with rice with vegetables and cheese.At Mrs.Caicedo's dinner is a side dish, papas chorreadas, which provides a simple and delicious match for the hot soup."Whenever you go to a restaurant in Bogota, you get papas chorreadas," said Mariella Vega, one of the guests .".In Colombia, this dish is usually made from local dark foods.Potatoes without meat in the United States;It's closest to red potatoes.They are simple to cook and warm sauce combined with chopped ripe tomatoes and yumidingblanco.The meal ended with a lady.Raisins from CaicedoCoconut cake seasoned with sherry and caspiroletas, a small pastry top pin filled with homemade syrup.The first stop on the recent gourmet tour of Jackson Heights is the Las America bakery on 37 Avenue, close to 9 3d Street, 20-year-An old family with a wide range of Colombian pastries and breads.Every morning, on the way to work, residents stop to buy pastries, a cup of coffee and morning paper.However, in Las Americas, the pastry may be bunuelo, round cheese, corn and egg cake, and the coffee is strictly 40-The weight of Colombian crude oil and newspapers is El Spectador of Bogota, El Colombia Biano of Medellin and El Pais of Cali.Another feature of Las Americas is the ponque, a dark damp cake made with cut-in fruit and raisins, soaked for weeks with vermouth, eggs, butter and flourThis pony is a little sweet and has a strange, pleasant smell of burning --It's sugar edge."We cooked the sugar until it was dark, but it didn't really burn to give the cake that color and flavor," explains Hernan Ochoa, one of the owners .".The store has made active deals on a variety of Colombian bread, including pot bottoms made of white cheese and yucca starch, small and chewy bread;Almojabanas, similar to pan de queso, but added some rice noodles;Plate uva, sweet bread with raisins;Roscon donuts-Shaped pastry full of sweet guava jelly, along with the Colombian version of tortillas, made from rough Whitecorn flour.Columbia, such as American or French, varies greatly depending on the country.If Colombian food, in fact, has certain common denominator in Latin American food, they are empanadas and tamales.Some of the best restaurants around were run by the same family on Roosevelt Avenue by two calisvijo restaurants, one at 7310 and 85 others-08.Meanwhile, little corn in FloridaDeep pockets of dough filled with shredded meat, onions, cumin and other spices --Fried until no oil stains, crispy and perfect.They were first class when they were immersed in some aji Pique, a sinusSteamed combination of pepper, garlic, fresh coriander, scallions, oil and vinegar.Two Cali Viejo restaurants (a little smaller this summer, 85-08 Roosevelt, will close and move to a new location near 84 th Street)Price envueltos de maiz (crispy, honey-Sweet corn and cheese fritters in southwestern Colombia) and steamed corn.While Colombian locals may argue endlessly about which Tamar is the best --Rice, no rice, chicken, porkThe Cali version is perfect for Yankee newbies.This style requires making dough with corn flour and potato starch, filling it with peas, large pieces of pork and a variety of spices, and then wrapping it with large leaves.Tamales are securely tied and then boiled until the filling is firm."Every time Americans come in and try them, they will love them," said Alba battitas, one of the owners .".At six-year-old El Kioscoweek-89-old restaurant05 Northern Boulevard, according to the style of Tolima in the southwestern mountainous area of Bogota, some of the valueable Tamar wines are made of rice.Ruth Romero, a native of tolimar, and her husband Jorge owns El Kiosco, after making homemade Tamar for a nearby private party, she came up"People began to call me and asked for more and more ."Romero, a warm and hospitable woman."They said, 'Why don't you open a restaurant?'' so I did!Lady advertising.Romero made another delicious special, called sobrebarriga a la brasa, in water and beer with scallions, garlic, cumin and pepper on the side of the steakThe meat is surprisingly tender and delicious, and it is baked with a wonderful smoky finish.When Colombian chefs entertain a group of people, they may offer a dish called picada, a combination of grilled mosela (blood sausage), sausage, steak, plantains and deepfried yuca.Yuca, a tropical root vegetable, also known as Sweet cassava or sweet manioc, is a staple of many Latin American national dishes and has entered dozens of Colombian dishes.The chefs at home often use the frozen Mrs Yuka.Romero explained that because it works easier and produces good results.Yuca is cut into chips-sized strips and fried.Add a little salt, lighter than French fries, and taste stronger.With the exception of certain specialty products, such as Dark local potatoes, most of the fruits and vegetables that Colombian people can buy in their home country can be found in Jackson Heights."My parents still call me from Colombia all the time and say, 'Can we send you some food from here? '?' '' said Mrs.Romero."I said, 'Mom, don't bother. we have everything here.'Aji Pique (chili sauce) 7 scallions, white only, 1 tomato for chopped 1/4 cups of chopped fresh coriander, peeled, sowed and chopped Moon minced meat soup hot red or green pepper (or deflavored) moon ounce white wine vinegar Water Moon Spoon vegetable oil salt flavor.Put all the ingredients in a small bowl and stir well.At least half an hour before serving.This sauce will be kept in the fridge for more than a week.Production: about 1/2 cups.1 1/2 pound beef tail from Colombian beef and plantain soup (Sancocho), usually at 2-inch-6 garlic cloves of 5 scallions, peeled and crushed 10 small branches fresh coriander 2 tablespoons coarse salt Papri Fresh 6 quarts dehydrated 1 1/2 pound thin stewed beef, cut into small pieces3 green plantains 1 1/2 pound frozen Yuka.1.Remove all excess fat from the tail.Put the beef tail, scallions, garlic, coriander, salt, pepper and pepper into a deep pot.Cover with water for 10 minutes.Advertisement2.Boil the liquid, cook for 10 minutes, and skim the fat.Lower the temperature, cover and cook for 45 minutes.3.Boil the soup and add beef stew.While skimming the fat, cook for 5 minutes with a low boil.Return to cook and consult for more minutes on corruption issues.4.Peel off the grass in front of the car.Cut them into 2-inch pieces.Add banana and Yuka to the soup, one at a time, and make sure the soup continues to be cooked when added.45 minutes slower.Service with aji pique;Diners can add sauce to the soup.If needed, add white rice to the soup on the table.Output: 6 to 8 copies.Note: frozen Yucca can be found in many Spanish groceries.Tapioca pancake (deepFry yuca) 3 pounds freeze yuca salt and taste 3 cups (about) of vegetable oil used for frying.1.Place the frozen uca block in a large and deep pan.Cover with salt water, boil and cook for 15 minutes under low boiling.2.Carefully remove the yuca from the pan and place the pieces on a large plate.Cool on one side.3.When yuca pieces are cool enough to be processed, cut them into strips about the size of a thick steak fries.4.Heat about 3 cups of oil in a deep pan or pan and heat to about 380 degrees.Carefully put the pieces of Yuka, put a few at a time, and fry them until they turn gold --About 4 minutes.Drain on paper towels, sprinkle salt and serve immediately.Output: 6 copies.Pepper (potato with tomato and cheese sauce) 6-1 tablespoon of vegetable oil 1 large and small red potato SaltChop up the onion, chopped 1 tomato, peeled, sown and chopped Freshly ground pepper and taste 1 teaspoon of 1/4 pound tortillas (white cheese ).Advertisement1.Cook potatoes in light salt water for about 20 minutes.2.Heat the oil in a medium pot-Stir the onion and tomato at high temperature and often stir for 15 minutes or until the onion softens.Season with pepper and pepper.3.Add crushed cheese and stir well.Halved potatoes;Sauce with sauce.Output: 4 to 6 copies.Note: Queso blanco is a slightly salty white cheese company for sale in many Spanish groceries.Steak in Bursa (steak in Colombia-Style) 1 onion for 6 oz beer, 1 teaspoon of cumin salt chopped, 1/4 teaspoon of cayenne pepper 1/2 green pepper chopped 1 glass of water 2 pounds lean steak.1.Put Beer, onions, cumin, salt, peppers and green peppers in a big pot.Add water and boil.Add the meat, reduce the heat, cover the meat, stew the meat very soft and tender --About 1/2 to 2 hours depending on the thickness.2.Drain the meat, grill it on a charcoal fire or under a broiler, heat it and give it a crisp texture.Service with aji pique on the side.Output: 4 copies.Torta de Coco (coconut cake) 1 1/3 cup sherry 9 oz raisins 2 cups sugar 3 water 2 cinnamon sticks 7 oz unsweetened coconut 1 pound cake (see recipe to separate two teaspoons of cinnamon butter powder to lubricate the cake pan.1.Soak the raisins in sherry.Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.2.Add sugar, water and cinnamon sticks to the pan.Cook with medium heat until the mixture forms thick syrup.Add coconut, stir well, Cook in medium heat for 3 minutes, stir occasionally.Remove from the high temperature and cool.Remove the cinnamon stick.3.Grate the pound cake into a big bowl.Stir the egg yolk and add pound cake with coconut mixture, raisins, sherry and cinnamon powder.4.Butter a 10-inch-Diameter spring-form cake pan.5.Stir the protein until they form hard peaks.Fold them into batter.Pour the batter into the pan and bake for about 1 hour or until the knife inserted into the center is clean.Advertising volume: 10 to 12 copies.At room temperature, pound cake 2 cups of sweet butter, grease 1 1/2 cups of sugar 9 eggs with butter, separate 2 tablespoons of brandy 1 teaspoon of vanilla 4 1/2 cups of cake powder and 1/2 teaspoon of salt.1.Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.2.Stir butter and sugar to fluffy with an electric mixer.When the medium is mixed, add one egg yolk at a timehigh speed;blend well.Add brandy and vanilla.3.Mix flour with salt.Sift this into the butter.Mix the egg mixture.4.Stir the protein until stiff.Fold the white color into the batter with a rubber spatula.Pour this into butter.An inch cake plate, or two smaller ones.5.Bake for an hour or until the cake is pulled away from the side of the pan and the knife inserted in the middle reaches out cleanly.Cool on a rack.Yield: One 10-inch cake.Empanadas filling: 1/2 bay leaf 1 garlic cloves, crushed in 1/4 lb skinless, boneless chicken 1-Size potatoes 1 large onion, 1 chopped tomato, 3 peeled, sown and chopped garlic cloves, chopped 1 teaspoon cumin powder 1/4 teaspoon pepper Salt and freshly ground pepper1.Put enough water in a deep pot to cover the chicken and add bay leaves and chopped garlic.Boil the liquid, add the chicken, heat it for 15 minutes, and dig it away.Take out the chicken and drain it.2.Cook potatoes in light salt water for about 20 minutes.Remove and reserve.3.When the potato is cold enough to be processed, peel it down and cut it into small pieces.Chop the chicken in the same way.4.In a medium-sized frying panFry onions, tomatoes, garlic, cumin, peppers, salt and pepper in vegetable oil for about 10 minutes.Stir often.Add meat Ding and potatoes, stir well and fully heat.Set aside.Empanada dough: 3 cups (approx) vegetable oil 2 cups of water 2 cups of precooked white corn flour 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon butter see note at room temperature ).Advertisement1.Pre-hot oil in a deep pot or pan to about 380 degrees.2.Boil water in a pan.Put the corn flour in a big bowl.Pour the boiled water on the rice and stir hard.Add salt, butter, cornstarch and bijol if needed, and continue to mix until a hard rubber dough is formed.3.When the dough is cooled enough to be processed, form a big ball.Pull a Ping-Pong-Balls of dough size.If the dough looks crispy, add a little water and work in it with your hands.4.Place the ball on a layer of plastic wrap on the plane.Then add a layer of plastic wrap on it.Using a flat plate, press the ball into a fine circle about 5 inch in diameter.Remove the upper layer of the plastic wrap.Place about a teaspoon of filling in the center of the circle and fold the dough in half by lifting the side of the plastic wrap to form a new moon.It is easier to handle plastic wrap than to process the dough itself.Gently press the edge of the dough through the plastic wrap.Seal empanada by running a blunt instrument around the curved edge, such as a butter knife or spoon, cutting off the excess dough.5.Gently remove the plastic wrap and place empanada in hot oil.Cook for 2 to 3 minutes or until empanada is golden and crispy.Dry paper towels and serve immediately with hot sauce aji pique.Output: shrimp in the month.Note: many Spanish groceries have pre-cooked white corn flour, distributed by companies such as Goya, Iberia and La Venezolana.Bijol is a Spanish condiment that is usually sold in powder form and is also used as a food pigment.It can also be found in many Spanish groceries.A version of this article appears on page C00001, the national edition of June 1, 1983, with the title: a Latin-flavored medley in Queens.