gas grill burner replacement Foundry: How to Build a Burner (Natural Gas)

I am quite new to the whole foundry field and just started and ran my Foundry a month ago.It took me about six months to figure out how to build a gas burner and fix the lack of guidance on the Web, so I thought I should throw my two cents in, show me how I did it.I posted what I learned through trial and error.If anyone has more information or ideas, I would appreciate it if you could let me know.Having said that, I am not responsible for the actions or thoughts of anyone reading this article.There are always risks when working on "diy" projects, especially those involving fires.Practice safety when working on any type of casting or metal.Just a little background to explain why I did this.First of all, I am a college student.e.Broke) I have to use what I can get at any time, so propane is not possible.The gas pipeline I am in contact with is only 5 psi @ 3/4 "so I need a forced air system.I went to a blacksmith shop on the weekend to buy a foundry (minus the burner), so my entrance diameter was preset to 1.Enter the "1" hole of the brick factory.Its inner diameter is 10 "and its depth is 12 ".My crucible is A10 (inside height 7 5/16, inside height 5 11/16, inside bottom 3 3/4 );holds about 1.5 L) material: blower: 50-150 cfm (I am using Dayton 11TDR3 squirrel cage) pipe: 3/4 "ball valve (for gas line-3/4 "nipple (Horn/no horn, depending on your ball valve) 3/4 "-1/2 "reducer1/2" x 6 "nipple (variable) 1/2" end cap2 "-1" bushing1"-3/4 "bushing2" T-Pipe2 "x10" niple2 "x6" nipple (variable) 2 "floor mounting 2 "-1 1/2 "cercer1 1/2 "-3/4 'bushing3/4 '-18 "pipe (I had to go back and add a coupling and 3/4" x4 "nipple so 1 1/2" with 24 "-1 "reducer1 1/2" x5 "clamp pipe tape or pipe coating (for sealing pipes) you also need drill bits, 1/8 'drill bits, auxiliary drill bits, welding machines and Angle Mills;Not to mention the skills and equipment to use them correctly.This is based on what I have to deal.Obviously, you don't need a 1/2 nipple or reducer if you have a 3/4 gas outlet.Pipe: 3/4 "ball valve (for natural gas pipeline-3/4 "nipple (Horn/no horn, depending on your ball valve) 3/4 "-1/2 "reducer1/2" x 6 "nipple (variable) 1/2" end cap2 "-1" bushing1"-3/4 "bushingAssembly: Measure the distance of 2" T-(inside)From one end of the "T" in the pipe to the other.The purpose is to make the 1/2 "tube end cap, T-with the last position centered on the long part of the distance-Pipe when the bushing and everything is screwed in.Mark the required distance on the 1/2 "pipe.(I used a 6 "tube, but you can go longer if you want.) If you can find a 2 "-3/4 "the sleeve uses it and if you can't, do what I do and find the equivalent of it.Clean the 1/2 "pipe (Mark) and weld it to the 3/4" sleeve you will be using.Make sure it's in the center.Use circular and secondary welds as needed.Drill a 1/8 hole in the center of the 1/2 end cap and enter T-pipe.At the other end of the 1/2 "pipe, use a plumber tape or a doping plumber tape or paint and screw into the reducer or 1/2" ball valve.If using the reducer to connect to the nipple of 3/4 like I did, then connect it to the ball valve.Use plumber tape or paint.Fix the assembled parts at 2 "T-pipe.Use plumber tape or paint.Pipes:3/4"-18 "pipe (I had to go back and add a coupling and 3/4" x4 "nipple so 1 1/2" with 24 "-Month "reducer1 1/2" x5 "nipleuse vice month 1/2"-1 "reducer (wide side down) in place.Then four equal spacing cuts (as close as possible) are performed using angle Mills about 1 "-1 1/2 from the top (1) side.These vents provide extra air to help control the flame.Place 1 1/2 "x5" nipple on the reducer and slide 3/4 of the pipe in until it is about 1/2From 5 "3/4 at the end of the nipple" (inside ).Then mark the pipe on the side of 3/4 "aligned with reducer 1.This further guides the flame to the foundry that keeps the nozzle cooler, which also helps to prevent the back pressure in the nozzle.Clean and weld the 3/4 "pipe (Mark) to the 1" side of the reducer.Make sure it is centered.Use circular and secondary welds as needed.I initially made my pressure too short and the back pressure (from reduction to brick work) was heating the nozzle so I had to add a coupling and a nipple to compensate.This is to connect the fan to the burner.Pipe: 2 "x 6" nipples (variable) 2 "floor mounting I don't have pipe to reduce it to 2" pipe so I made a hair dryer temporarily.I got some (especially 4) 4 "x 6" roof flashing, chiseled a 2 "hole in the center and tied them to a 2" floor stand.I installed a 2 "x 6" nipple on the floor stand and screwed it to T-pipe.Right angle to the rest of the burner assembly, providing airflow in the mixing room to create better fuelto-air mixture.Use plumber tape or paint on all fittings in this section.Part: 2't-fan bracket outside gas nozzle-Pipe2 "x10" niple2 "--1 1/2 "cercer1 1/2 "-3/4 bushel mixing room Twist 2 "-1 1/2 "reducer and 1 1/2 '-3/4 "threading together, please be sure to use plumber tape or paint.If you can find one to use 2 "-Change to 3/4 "reducer.Connect the 2 "end of the reducer to the 2" x 10 "nipple.Use plumber tape or paint.This will create the mixing room when connected to 2 "T-pipe.Connect the gas inlet to one side of T-Opposite pipe and mixing room--If not already.Make sure these connections use plumber tape or paint.Connect the fan holder so that it is perpendicular to the mixing chamber and the gas inlet--If not already.Make sure these connections use plumber tape or paint.Screw the 3/4 end of the nozzle outlet into the 3/4 'end of the mixing chamber.Make sure these connections use plumber tape or paint.Before connecting to any of the gas lines, test all connections for air leakage with soapy water.Be sure to practice safety when using the burner.Happy melt =) about 1-1.Warm up the foundry for 5 hours to start melting aluminum and red the Crucible....