gas grill burner replacement Gas Burner Controller

I am a self-made Brewery that produces five grains of craft beer.I'm automating my Brewery and I'm doing this just for fun because automation isn't really needed in a process that takes 5 hours and has about ten minutes of actual work!My brewing equipment uses a propane burner to heat the water for tamping (soaking the grain in hot water) and boiling the wheat juice (the liquid extracted from the grain ).To automate the process, I need to be able to start and stop the gas burner under program control.It also needs safety considering the gas involved.I decided to make a separate controller with only one purpose in my life: to safely start and stop the burner and turn off the gas if there is no flame.Also, it should not start or let the gas escape if the external signal is disconnected or powered off.I will make a brewery controller that will be connected to that burner controller via command input to turn the burner on and off.If you want to control the temperature affected by the burner controlled by this burner controller, you can purchase a ready-made PID controller and attach the output of the thr PID to the command input of that controller.Example PID controller.If the link is stale, just search for PID on Ebay.The controller is based on Arduino Uno (I used the equivalent of Sparkfun Redboard ).The switch can open the burner locally or remotely open the burner with a single TTL active low signal on its command input.The controller displays the status of its off, lighting and on status through 3 LEDs.The TTL status line indicates the on/off status for remote use by the brewery controller.The controller works at 12Vdc input.This powers Arduino, which produces its own 5Vdc.12 V is used to power the gas solenoid valve.The cable from my beer controller will provide 12Vdc, GND, command signal and receive status signal.4 wires.Arduino compatible relay module (1) single knife switch (3) LEDs (3) 330 Ohm 1/4 watt resistor (1) arduino compatible buzzer module for propane gas and accessories (1) item Box (1) 12Vdc solenoid valve.1/4 "Hose Hook fitting X2 for installation of valves and hose clamps X2 (1) after-sales BBQ igniter (modified) cables, connectors, wires etcWARNING: it is dangerous to use gas!If you lack the skills of this project, let a qualified person do it.I am not responsible for the damage caused by the use of this manual.Risk of use on its own.I used a small plastic waterproof Engineering box.Waterproof because it is used around the water in the brewery.Any opening in the box is at the bottom, so no water spilled on the controller will enter.For ease of assembly, I assemble the part on the top of the shallow box and use it as a control/display.The rest of the box can be installed where you need it.If you need to do some work on the circuit, you can simply remove the front panel and bring it to the "lab" cut access hole of the cable.Drill holes for LEDs, switches and cables.Arduino, relay modules and led are installed.I just used a few drops of epoxy to install the parts.It's a bit permanent and it's hard to replace the parts, but it's "easy peasy "!Connect items according to the provided chart.Make the length of your solenoid, sensor, and firearms cable suitable for your application.I paid $10 for a Ignition module on Ebay.The module runs on 3Vdc.Has a switch input connected to the burner controller relay.It also has an led that lights up when it flashes.The output is 12KV at high pressure, which will spark with the ground in a gap of 1/4.WATCH OUT!This bastard will knock you down if you're not careful.I used two aaa batteries to power the unit.An electrode was obtained from the old replacement bbq starter.In order to ignite the gas, electrodes need to be placed in order to spark in the air/gas mixture.This is achieved by making a small "tent" with a metal sheet to capture the gas and position the electrode in the "tent. I cut the electrode to the right length with a wire cutting machine and carefully clamp the protective parts of the metal part with the vise so as not to damage the ceramic insulator.The ground output of the Ignitor is connected to the "tent.Install the hose rewind in the solenoid valve using teflon tape to seal the thread.Cut the hose from the gas regulator near the burner.Install valves using stainless steel hose clamps.Note: Make sure to install valves with flow arrows in the direction of gas flow (see figure ).Connect the hose to the burner and connect the regulator to the tank.Turn on the gas and check for leaks using soap and aqueous solution.Fix any bugs before the program!If there is no leakage, please power the solenoid valve and check the gas flow.You did this.I used a flame sensor to measure the brightness of the infrared.Dx.Com owns them for $3.Free shipping if you are willing to wait 3 weeks to get it.It has a sensitivity adjustment that you can use to set the flame level that it thinks is "lit", it needs 5Vdc, GND, and there is an output signal indicating the presence of the flame.I made an L-A hole with a "see" flame and a shape bracket that allows to adjust another hole in the sensitivity tank on the plate.The board is installed at the confrontation.I have to cover the back and sides of the sensor led to keep the ambient light out.The bracket provides a sanctuary away from the heat of the burner, so the sensor does not melt!The software for this project was created using Arduino integrated development environment (IDE) and atmel Studio (not required.Go to the download tab.The finite state machine model is used to provide clear and necessary conditions to ensure that there are no errors that may result in unsafe operations. Learn about the finite state machine.The controller can only be in four states.Turn off, lighting, on and alarm.These states and triggers for transitions between states are described in the figure.You can get a free copy of my arduino code.Take the risk of using it yourself!