grill with side burner Fuego Prime: the Transforming Flaming Scarecrow/Fire Pit/Patio Heater/Camping Stove

by:Longzhao BBQ     2020-01-14
grill with side burner Fuego Prime: the Transforming Flaming Scarecrow/Fire Pit/Patio Heater/Camping Stove
This scarecrow is a good decoration for Halloween lawn, but unlike other decorations, it does not enter the trash can after the end of the night, it will eat the trash can, burn anything you put into it with the same malice, it projects out of its evil burning gaze.My cost of building this monster is $48 and should be less, but my time is short and I have to buy more accessories and pipes than I care about.With a good puncher, welder, even a flashlight and some copper sticks, the cost will be lower.If you have a typical Southern rural backyard, almost everything is sitting there to build this beast for you.CAUTION;This instructable is actually playing with fire and needs to be worn with proper protection and needs to be done with safety or you end up looking like a Deadpool stunt man.This project has the limitations of the creator, and the variations that can be generated from it are endless.This article will show how to make a scarecrow, turn the scarecrow into a small fire pit, and then a camping stove.The three forms of propane tanks do not have to be done in order or at all.After the tank is ready, the builder can go directly to the stove or fire pit.The addition of propane components is listed as an option in separate steps.The fuel for all three projects can be either solid combustible or propane.This project uses fire and should be careful when making and using this project.It's time to check your tools and skills...Skills required: literacy, light mechanical ability, hand tools skills and common sense.Skills advice: computer hacking skills, nun-Chuck skills, bow hunting skills...Or more practical skills like: if you're not a major adhesive tape and bubble gum mechanic, don't worry, the project can be done almost by anyone with the basic tools in the garageTools Needed :--If you only have basic necessities, consider allocating enough time to ask for help from friends.Suggested Tools: and the tools needed...PPE: eye and ear protection, mask if you want, closed toe shoes and fire extinguishers.Basic parts: Recommended parts: W for wood burning items, P for propane, all steel pipes, flanges and connectors should be black steel or cast iron, not galvanized, * brass is a PVC accessory that okDo does not use any propane connection and propane destroys PVC.An important part of the project is the tank.Safe!Don't do anything about a fuel tank with fuel!A) if you have A tank that you are pretty sure to be empty, place the tank in the open space outside the door, away from flames, children, old people, young people, middle age, dogs, cats, rodents, etc.Open the tank valve all the way and walk for 6 hours.If it makes a big hissing sound when you open the tank, turn it off immediately, connect to the grill and cook your lunch!B) since the tank no longer contains propane, you may start the process of removing the valve, the older the tank, the worse the fight.It is usually possible to remove the brass valve with 2 large adjustable wrenches/pipe wrenches or pipe and pipe wrenches.Expansion bar and other help may be required.If the tank is less than 40 years old, it is not very difficult to dismantle.Tapping the brass valve with a sledgehammer can damage the thread in the tank and become more difficult later in the project, and if the impulse appears, tapping something else with a sledgehammer, siblings and domestic cats are good targets.C) drilling a 3/16 hole at the bottom of the tank (opposite the valve) or where the tube will go (if you want) is also a good place.D) heating may be required for stubborn tanks to relax.If the valve has come out, remove as much sludge as possible from the old hole of the valve by turning the tank upside down and placing it side by side in the oil pan.Those who still connect the valve should have a fire extinguisher at hand.Tilt the tank valve sideways and set it away from flammable.Keep your hands off using a torch, a candle lighter, a burning dung cover stick, or other similar device to ignite the valve/valve hole.The sludge in the tank will burn, and the vents drilled in Step C will keep the tank lit without excessive pressure.Reignite the tank multiple times as needed until the tank is no longer reignitedignite.Cool for 30 minutes.E) remove the tank ring by cutting the 3 welds on the ring, and if it has not already been done, it is also an option to drill the chain around the weld.This is an intermediate step.Guide to material removal.This small section describes how to remove the metal on the tank with tools you may or may not have.There are many ways to cut and smooth storage tanks, here are some: drilling: metal drilling should always be lubricated for a simple reason.No one likes to push the hard shaft to a dry place, and the metal is the same.Whether it's paraffin from old Yankee candles, professional wax sticks, actual beeswax wax or consumer drilling lubricants;Use some lubricants to keep your drill bits cool, they will stay longer, cut faster and bend less.Drilling Rate and bit size is proportional to.Unlike wood, you can't drill 1/2 holes at 2500 RPM for a long time.You will harden the steel with friction and blunt your drill bit with the heat generated by friction.The larger the bit, the slower the speed.When the holes are greater than 1/4 ", the pilot drilled them with a drill bit of about 1/16" this added step will save the drill bit and actually save time, because when the drill tip at the peak of the drill bit is not dug, the drilling process passes through steel.Chain drilling: this is nothing more than connecting the drilling holes together with lines on the scrap side of the part to engrave the pattern.After drilling out the pattern of almost overlapping holes, the waste can be knocked off with a hammer and punch press.Excess peaks can be grounded with manual or power tools.Using small bits that are easy to penetrate steel, the chain drill is effective in areas where larger tools cannot be cut correctly.This is also the safest way to cut as it does not involve rotating fiberglass death wheels, sharp blades or fire.The chain drill is the cheapest way to cut, but it is also the most time consuming.Hole saw cutting: as with drilling, apply media pressure very slowly, prepare to bend, and use a lot of wax/lubricating oil.Body saw/fixture saw: Keep the throttle below half and use a lot of wax by applying wax on the blade or cutting area.Liquid lubricating oil makes it difficult to change the blade later, and the motor does not like it.Make sure you are using a metal cutting blade.Mold grinder and 4 "grinder: gloves are a good idea and it is not appropriate to not use the grinder protection device that comes with the grinder.(My rip saw has never been. I found a pawnshop.) Masks and dust shields are recommended, as are heavy aprons and heavy hats.Get enough wheels ready, don't twist the grinder when cutting, it will break the wheel, blow a ball of dust on your face, and the wheel block.If you twist, the grinder stops, stops, pulls out, and then re-Align the tool so that the wheels are not squeezed.Roll: Once again, the speed is not your friend.Good pressure, stable movement and lubricant.When filing, loading files with sidewalk chalk works best.It keeps the teeth clean and lubricate the file.Just archive the chalk until they are the same color and go into town.You now have a huge Lego head that smells burnt fart.A) draw A face you want to cut off the tank.If you put your vent on the side of the tank, try the hole designed with the face or hide it in your eyes.To illustrate, and the development of the work, my design is very simple.Keep in mind that the valve hole is where the Scarecrow neck is connected.Unless you want the Scarecrow to be like Tom Tucker's son, make sure the valve hole is down when drawing.B) drill the corner of the feature and give yourself rounded corners so that it will be easier to finish grinding later.Drilling is also required when using body and clamp saws.This is also a good boundary point for the mold grinder, 4 "grinderC) as long as it doesn't damage or kill, start cutting with whatever method you like.D) De-Polish and finish the face using a grinder, documents, sandpaper, honing grinds, your last Mana, and more.E) draw the back door and cut the door.F) De-Burr back door like before.G) grab the large piece of steel from the face cut and let the door stop, I used the eye cut on the hole saw.Grind and finish as needed.H) the drill and Bolt doors stop on the inside of the tan opposite the hinge you will be installing.I) mark the hinge position of the back door as the pin is right at the edge of the door hole, marking the hole, drilling, bolts.J) marking (which can be done when the door is kept in the hole to determine the position), dismantling and drilling the door.Drill the door for the door handle/knob when drilling.K) assemble the door using the required hinges and bolts.The handle I used was a rusty long bolt that I bent and was secured inside by the NUT.Slop is your friend in this building and don't be afraid to open the holes in order to better align the flush doors and hinges.L) for wood burner: now you are ready to cut your wood will sit on the stove/grate/grill above when burning inside the tank.The old grill can be used for this after being cut to fit inside the tank, you can bend someBar or steel bar, as long as no galvanized is used.My choice is a stainless steel pan for the toaster oven.NEXT UP...The body of the beast....Get up from the ground..A) the building from the bottom to the top is the way I chose to build A 7 feet tall beast, using A smaller tray as the base, it's easy to build A good portable frame.B) make legs using scrap wood and pallet blocks.I used two pallet slats and simply used the #10 lag bolt through both ends to connect the two with "V" but when I put my legs on the tray, I still allow me to move my legs and change the angle.C) positioning the legs to find the anchor point and the support block, I use the remnants of 2x4 to make smaller blocks, these blocks can be bolted to the top of the tray in two positions of each block.There are 4 blocks in total, the legs are clipped in the middle, and then 2-1/2 "screws in 2 places.D) when the legs were fixed through 4 anchor blocks, it was time to install the torso, and I used an old cabinet loose with a 1 "thick and re-used lag bolt.Plywood works as long as it is layered to 1 "thick (double or triple layers as long as the wood is bolted to the corners and center --line).The boards used should be around 24 "and can be wide as long as you like.Keep the top edge of the board open to secure the shoulders.Press the weight of the world on your shoulders..It's time to build the shoulder with a tank frame.To make sure your burning scarecrow doesn't turn into a headless knight, this piece needs a lot of support.E) use at least 8' long 2x1/2 "Pipe Nipples to assemble the pipe into a 1/2 "-3/4 "tube" T "and 90-degree elbow.Make sure the new T-Fix the frame on a good solid plate using a 1/2 Tube strap (preferably the same thickness as the trunk), using at least 4 bars.F) use the sandwich method to connect the shoulders, creating overlap between the torso and the shoulders.Weebles swing, but they don't fall.Your structure may need some support and time to put it in.G) I added a final bracket to my project, from the tray to the bottom of the shoulder, using old blocks that look like Ikea bed rails and two rusty door hinges.The hinge is fixed in the shoulder board mezzanine with a 1/4 "lag bolt, and then fixed in another anchor block on the tray with the same wood that makes the other 4 anchor blocks.Using the hinge can connect the support without worrying about the angle. how is the following connection.H) arm up: I used the old vacuum hose, but the pool, branches, or anything you can bolt on your shoulder can work as an arm.Just cut it to a certain length and screw it up with two screws to get them to pop up a little bit instead of just hanging the limp and no one likes the lame noodles.I) it is highly recommended to paint the scarecrow with a barbecue lacquer to help resist all the wood in the body as well as the fire of foam or plastic.There are not many clothes and it doesn't matter, but if lit for some reason, the wood will be a pretty good show.It's time to dress..I chose a shirt that caught fire while making Scarecrow and some old pants.As long as it is not too flammable type, it would be better to really throw some good sheets and more rags.Cotton is as easy to burn as cheap polyester.If you feel inclined, the cheap spray on the flame retardant instructions is here: the old garden variety gloves are used to make hands and dip a little in red paint to show off.L) screw it on the head and see how good it burns!To be more civilized, adding propane may be more in line with your style----You like the Scarecrow, but you are not in the mood to continue feeding it blocks of wood and then smoke...Adding propane fuel to the Scarecrow is a very easy addition.A) build your propane fuel unit.Use the hose on the grill, or attach another hose with a hose fixture to the water tank regulator and attach the nipple to the valve.I have to get a brass fitting from the pipe department to install a 1/4 non-proliferation treaty hose rehook on the valve.Due to up to 1-1, the pressure and leakage of these parts is not a big problem2 PSI peak flow through the system.Propane or car fuel tubing is used only and other tubing breaks when exposed to propane.B) assemble the burner head removed from BBQ by removing any screen from the vent at the long end of the tube and trimming the seams inside the 1/2 "tight nipple.Don't just cut out the sun from the nipple hole, no one likes the nipple hole that is cut out.Trim using a rotating tool with a stone drill bit or a semi-circular file suitable for the hole.Take a break and test it.The required fit will require the burner head to be broken with a hammer that will deform the burner.I pressed the burner in front of the vent.I would not recommend this because it limits the dispersion of oxygen and leads to a richer flame.If you expose the vents on the burner in half, you should see better results, if not, just smash it further.C) install the valve regulator on the shoulder: place the valve at the end of the pipe (either shoulder), Mark the shoulder area to be cut out to allow clearance.I cut too much and should leave the material and fix the valve in the right position with a 1/2 pipe belt.It would be better for the chain to drill out the area of the regulator and the relative cap as it leaves more material and maintains more structural integrity on the shoulders.Cut or drill out the required wood so that the valves and pipes are properly aligned.D) use a 1/2 pipe cap or something that is strain-free on a 1/2 Non-Proliferation Treaty nipple thread, do not force it or strip the thread, because if the other two build options are executed, they will be needed later.I have an adapter for another project.E) drill a hole 1/64 smaller than the diameter of the valve nozzle on the pipe cap/nut.If you don't have calipers or a suitable drill bit simply drill 1/16 in the size of the nozzle diameter on the grill, ready to slowly open the hole with a file or rotating tool.F) use the file or rotate trim and extra brass from the nozzle to make a beautiful tapered shaft that will be pressed on the tube cap/nut.G) after removing the knob, use the deep well socket to push the valve into the lid (instead of crushing) that you install on the pipe to push the valve into the lid.Don't hit the knob bar.You're going to ruin the valve.Use the pipe opposite his head cover!Twist the head to a comfortable position, face the desired position, and then screw to the burner body manufactured before the barbecue and the 1/2 "tight nipple.Don't worry about insufficient threads, seal the temporary area between the nipple and the inner diameter of the 3/4 "tube to the head, use high temperature seals such as clay, and a large number of Teflon tape or fiberglass sheets are wrapped around the thread.Welding and welding is a more permanent option.I) fix the propane line from the tank to the Scarecrow using straps, zippers, bailing lines, etc.J) connect the filled propane tank to the regulator, open the valve under the underarm and light the head using the required method (candle lighter, torch, burning Poole, etc.K) sniffing if there is a leak around, while looking for a major leak, use water and soap to punch the spray bottle out to spray the joint and tighten the joint as needed.K) put on the shirt of the Scarecrow.I need a place to spam these.--> If you skip the Scarecrow directly to the fire pit, your steps are almost the same and you will notice the difference.A) take apart your intimidating Crow, (Du!) Cut the wood into pieces short enough to fit into the tank later.B) cut the face of the scarecrow--If you don't make a scarecrow, dig a hole in the tank.1/2 "x 11" sheets of paper, with paper closest to the original tank valve hole, place long edges on the weld.1) wet the paper and put it in position, follow up with marking tools (oil pens, paint marks, chalk, etc.2) drill a hole in every corner of the marking paper and do not try to drill through the weld.Cut/chain drill/cast and goburr.Refer to the video in the Scarecrow: time to make a face that only the mother can like for further cutting reference.4) optional: according to the description of the Scarecrow, cut the back door: it is time to make a face that only the mother can love.C) De-Bur and finish grinding holes that used to be your beloved face of creation, I had to take more material to flatten it a bit.D) put the valve hole side of the tank back up to the traditional storage position and arrange the exhaust pipe flange.E) pipe flanges for laying and marking 1/2, 3/4, or 1 (whichever exhaust pipe you choose) so the tank looks like it's sticking out a trident and looks like demon Wilson.I chose to place the pipe in equal spacing aligned with the center valve hole to facilitate the conversion to a camping furnace.I also recommend using a pipe greater than 1/2 as it does not allow enough exhaust gas to be discharged from the top of the tank.F) drill holes for flanges and exhaust pipes.The hole saw is a better cutting tool compared to the large diameter drill bit because it tends to catch at the end.It is also an option to open the guide hole using a rotating tool or a mold grinder.G) Drill 15-About 1/16 "of 20 holes around the perimeter of the curve at the bottom of the tank (the curve relative to the exhaust flange and the original valve hole ).G) connect the flange with nuts and bolts/self-tapping screws.H) screw the exhaust pipe into the flange.BBQ paint, re-paintInsert the bottom/grill.Wait for the curing time specified on the high temperature paint before burning.The whole thing about roasting marshmallow is cool, but it's not cooked with gas-> You didn't use the burn pit, but the idea of using the stove on the go doesn't sound bad.You took your Scarecrow apart and hungry. you should go to work if you want to eat ramen.A) cut off the face of your Scarecrow, make A big hole, or treat it like you like and turn it into an angry stove.--If you skip the Scarecrow and burn pit after preparing the tank, here are the catch-up notes: 1) take an 8-for efficiency-1/2 "x 11" sheets of paper, folded by length (like hot dog bread, not Burger), cut in half.2) wet the paper and place it next to the weld closest to the original tank valve hole so that the paper runs 11 "along the weld ".3) drill in 4 corners with 3/16 ish bit, cut out and removeburr.4) cut the back door as described by the Scarecrow: it's time to make a face that only the mother can love.B) place the 4 flanges of the legs in 4 positions around the valve holes of the original tank at an equal distance.The closer they are to the center hole, the higher the stove, the farther the distance, the more stable it is.My photo shows that only 2 were added from the burn pit to the original 2, just play with it.C) Mark holes for flange drilling, center hole drilling is optional, they can be used for additional airflow but also release the liquid flame starter.Bolts on the flange.The self drill screws were great when doing the pilot with 1/16 pits, but I had to grind them down from the stove later.If you use a 1/2 pipe, screw the PVC 1/2 "cap ".The lid acts as the flat foot of the furnace, and adjusting the leg joint on the flange will also level the furnace a bit.Stove tube without stove Tube: You now have the ugliest man-made satellite ever seen by the National Park administration, put it on your feet and warm up your drill bit again.D) cut a hole in the new top of the tank.I used my hole saw again.Keep the hole size below 4 "and then drill 15 holes around your big hole, about 1-1/2 "use 1/8" ish bit.Then 12 holes have been drilled in the Big Hole inside around the old tank foot strap (when the tank holds gas, the edge of the metal.When you're trying to cook ramen, these strip holes allow hot air to flow around your pan.E) time to make a cooking rack: If you don't steal one from a barbecue, you can easily make one with a 30 "3/8" steel bar.Slide the rod into about 3/8 "holes" in the tank foot strap, and if you plan to use the cotter key to fix the rod, mark off the extra 1/4 on each side.I marked it online and then cut it out online so that the end of the mushroom bar can be later.Welding and welding is also an option.F) install the 3/8 bar by drilling and nailing, bailing line or swe/upsting.G) install a short 3/4 "pipe joint in the old tank valve hole, the steel cap is optional as it can be used as a small start tank.H) install the Mantel/grate seen on the Scarecrow: it's time to make a face that only the mother can love.Paint with BBQ, wait for the allotted time, make your ramen, you may be hungry now.I managed to cook a gallon of water in the rain with this stove, and it did take 25 minutes due to 6 quarts of pots, bad refuel and the loss of the lid in the first half.For the love of propane, the next step is the last step!---> You are reading the last page of the Fuego Prime legend.It was a pleasure to write this instruction for you, but I'm a little tired, let's finish it together.A) the propane camping furnace is almost the same as the wooden camping furnace in the camping furnace: A camping car so ugly that no one will steal it, just shoot it.If you jump to the end after preparing the tank, it is recommended to cut only the back door and drill only 20-25 holes with a 1/8 "ish bit rotating around the lower half about 2" near the leg flange ".B) if used for actual cooking, the holes and cooking racks are the same as the wood stove, as a patio heater, it is recommended to omit the large diameter holes on the top and drill the second set of holes behind the old footband/track on the top.Patio heaters don't need to take holes in your feet like a stove unless you just want to get it up a bit.Let's burn it!C) mention propane Scarecrow: what do I tell you, boy;I like to make the regulator of the burner head and valve assembly with propane and propane fittings.D) connect the short 3/4 "tube nipple and 3/4", 1/2 "tube" T "fittings together.Install a 1/2 "pipe plug" on the other side of the 3/4 pipe ".Install a 1/2 on the last hole "-Brass or steel bushing 3/8.E) use the drill bit to process the maximum size drill bushing in the (smooth) area on the new propane valve.The valve/nozzle/regulator I have is gradually thinner at the bottom of the machined nozzle with a diameter of 7/16.F) insert the BBQ gas nozzle into the bushing that was previously drilled and it should be a comfortable fitting.Using a 1/16 drill bit, drill a hole parallel to one of the bushing planes through the nozzle side and drill it out from the other end of the Hex part of the bushing.Install the cotter key/pin.G) install the assembled burn rig into an old tank valve hole of 3/4.H) install the old barbecue burner head assembled on the tank as described by the propane Scarecrow: Boy, what do I tell you;I like propane and propane accessories.I) paint the water tank with BBQ paint, connect the gas and ignite the pig!
Custom message
Chat Online 编辑模式下无法使用
Chat Online inputting...