replacement stainless steel grill grates DIY Stainless Steel BBQ With Double Layer Bottom

DIY double bottom stainless steel (AISI 304) BBQ.The second layer protects the bottom of the barbecue from the influence of the size of the barbecue 500x3 40 x 110mmbase size 510x350x690 total height base + BBQ 740 stainless steel is a type containing at least 10%.The addition of chromium defines the unique properties of stainless steel, corrosion and heat resistance.The chromium content of the steel allows the formation of invisible corrosion-Anti-oxidation chromium film on steel surface.If mechanical or chemical damage, this film is fromProviding oxygen, even a very small amount of oxygen, can be cured.A common form of rusty stainless steel is exposed to a very high temperature in stainless steel (400-850°C) or (750-1550°F).If this happens, an increase in sensitivity may occur, which is where carbon and chromium are combined in stainless steel and form carbide.These carbide are located at the grain boundary of stainless steel, and the grain boundary is short of chromium.The chromium oxide protective film may become discontinuous and start to rust as the grain boundary chromium concentration decreases.Chemical composition stainless steel type 430 (magnetic) is also called Type 304 of 18/c stainless steel (non-Magnetic) also known as 18/8, it is divided into 18% chromium and 8% nickel stainless steel type 316 (non-Magnetic) is also known as 18/10 because of its composition of 18% chromium and 10% nickel. If you are interested in the dynamic of sheet metal, you can visit my Instructure page, simple version modified version, magnetic or non-magnetic to stainless steelMagnetic AISI 430, 304, 308, 316 on any surface: shiny, smooth, mat, satin.Recommended: as a cheaper option, magnetic AISI 430 recommended: nonMagnetic, the AISI 304 AISI 308 (more expensive than 304) and the AISI 316 (more expensive than 308), but I think that is an exaggeration.For Base1.The angle iron is about 3mm at 30x6 m².20x3mm treaty 0.5m3.Galvanized steel grille 4.The rod electrode is 6013 2.The red line represents bending. The green line stands for the first safety of cutsmember.Welding cutting and grinding tools are dangerous!Take risks yourself!Use the right protective equipment at all times.Make sure the sheet metal sheet is orthogonal before starting the drawing process.Sketch/plan with cutting and bending on sheet metal (AISI 304 810x650x0.Use the square tool-70mmcaliper -rule -mark scriber -At this point, let's assume that all the cuts are on the bending line.Mark alineat a distance of 155mm from each edge of sheet metal.At a distance of 45mm, then do the same thing at a distance of 25mm.Mark the small incision at a short edge 175mm from the long edge.Check the measured value and rectangle degree of the rectangular shape.Errors in this step may lead to unexpected and irreversible failures in subsequent steps.Layout and drill 4mm holes at 8 points of intersection cutting and bending.When drilling, use a piece of wood under sheet metal to avoid damage on the bench.These holes help to make a clear cut and stop the tension that is bent on each curved edge.In the previous steps, we assumed that all the cuts were on the bending line, but this was not the case.The short side needs to be a little shorter, about 1mm from the edge.With this tolerance, we will be able to correct small errors (if any) and the assembly will become too easy.Looking back, the cut on the long edge must be done on the outside of the line and adjacent to the line.On the short side, the cutting must be carried out on the inside of the line and adjacent to the line.Stainless steel cutting sheet 1mm is required.Fix sheet metal so that it cannot move or vibrate.The use of two pieces of wood and one clip is good enough (see photo ).Start cutting slowly and steadily without any rush.Yes, I know what you can tell me.A.Use the ground sanding flap disc and refine the cut to make it smooth enough.Using my sheet metal brake, start with the long side first and do all the simple bending.Adjust the clamping Rod according to the material thickness to place the sheet metal on the broken bed-Tighten the brake after adjustment.Push the bending handle to 90 degree bend.(Need to push a bit above 90 °) I don't think a more detailed description is needed for this step.You can follow the photo or watch the video with the bending process, because the setting of the brake needs to be changed, so in order to be able to bend the box, replace the clamping Rod (brake) tighten the bolts with bolts ø 12x220.Adjust the clamping Rod according to the material thickness and fix the bolt using the locking nut so as not to move.Also needed: you can track photos or watch videos here with this bending process, placing sheet metal in the center of the brake bed.Location: flat bar-stock steel -wood pieces -Then tighten the clamping rod.Use a piece of wood between long edges to increase free space.Bend the short edge until the bending touches on the long side.Put a square tube e.g.20x20mm or push a stock steel onto the bending unit and push the bending more than 90 degrees.Do the same thing on the other side.In the last three photos, you can see another similar way of this bending, using a piece of angle iron, some wood and two clips.To make the four corner joints, we can use the two scraps left by the cut.The size of these parts is a little smaller than planned, but it's not a big deal.(80x100mm on the floor plan, 77x100mm 2 on a waste) make a 100mm Mark line from one edge.Make a second cross Mark line in the middle of the work in order to be divided into two equal parts.Do the same thing in the second block.Do the cuts.There are now four rectangles that are almost equal.From the corner of the short side to the left/right 25mm mark the point of the bevel cut.The other three did the same.Refine the cut using a ground sanding flap plate and make the corners very smooth.Paved, drill four 4mm holes on each piece.The center of the hole must be as follows: Clean the hole using the counter table.Bend the joint 90 ° using a sheet metal brake.Fix everything with a rope.I started the rivets, first the four upper side corners, and then the corner joint one by one.Drill/rivet one hole, another hole, etc.Someone can say: why not, stainless steel rivets?OK, I agree, stainless steel is always the best option, but if you have a rivet tool that fits the SS rivets.I don't want to buy a SS rivet tool or kill my rivet tool with SS rivets.Anyway, aluminum melts at 660 °C or 1220 °F, so (Al) rivets are not such a bad option.For the second layer, four pieces of stainless steel 490x140x0 are required.60mm.This layer is removable and can be easily replaced with hundreds of barbecues in a few years without the need to make a new one.Cut and bend four pieces, arranged side by side at the bottom of the barbecue.The production of the Bbq base requires a 30x3mm angle iron, about 6 m, 20x3mm flat bars, about 0.5 m and a galvanized steel mesh of about 500x400mm.Angle Iron cut length of 2 pcs 508mm and 2 pcs 348mm (edges must be cut at 45 °) all other cuts are straight except 4 pcs 60mm, the 4 pcs also have a 45 ° slope on the top edge of the angle side.(15 from the top, 15mm from the side) 4 pcs 600mm2pcs 448mm 2 pcs 288mm assembly will place the upper frame of the barbecue, adjust and carry out viscous welding using 45 ° inclined cutting piecesweld.Use the sub-handle and two pieces of angle iron to install/weld the feet one by one in each corner of the frame.Install/weld the parts of the lower frame about 80mm from the edge of the foot (this frame can be used as a shelf for charcoal ).20x3mm flat strips cut two pieces of 250mm length for the handle.At a distance of 50mm from the two edges, 90 ° bending is performed.Install/weld the handle in the middle of the short edge of the upper frame.The galvanized steel grille is placed on the lower frame with a galvanized steel grille of about 500x400mm, and the shelf is ready.Thank you for reading.Good luck if you try.Don't say I can't.Need is the mother of invention.