stainless steel natural gas grill Stainless Steel BBQ

I 've been looking for an old-fashioned cast iron.The type grill, but now seems to have only cheap pressed steel models and fragile grills.I decided to use some of the stainless steel channels I salvaged from the work site to make my own.I think I have to buy a cast iron grill from Home Depot or somewhere else but my "dump karma" is working and I am able to find a grill that looks the right size what I wantIn the meantime, I also found another enameled wire grill that I could cut for coal.The only thing I need to buy is the rivets, the cutting plate, and of course the electricity (maybe I'll be there to be self sufficient one day )...) I'll say it again here later: Safety first!Without the items you can do, it's worth losing your irreplaceable eyes, fingers, or other parts of your body (including hearing.Make sure you also wear eye and ear protection and gloves.Keep in mind that you will work with sharp metals that don't care how "manly" you are....Measure twice and cut once.It is difficult to stretch some materials to fit once they are cut.Again, don't be disgusted and quit if you screw up.Be creative and realize it's a handManufactured products and some imperfections are OK, and at the end of the day, if it still does the job you want, it's made by yourself, not purchased.I used some of the channel ss I found, some stainless steel from the side of the office style water dispenser (also from the dump), as well as various other stainless steel corners etc.Tools: * eye, ear, and hand protection * grinder (good speed change, but use what you have), about $2 per metal cutting disc.I used 4 in this project and one of them got caught in kerf, screwed my wrist well and basically ruined myself.Look at it and have a good, strong, stable grip on the grinder.Make sure the cut metal does not move around and clamp it if you can.* Tape measure and steel rule for 45 degree angle or frame square * mark * Sharpie/Mark for miscellaneous fixture, auxiliary fixtures and pliers * rivet tools and stainless steel rivets * plastic and steel hammers * cold gouging and center punch * drill bit and 1/8 "stainless steel rod for rivet drill * 1/8" electrode * stainless steel pipe with one end expansion * sand plate for grinding machine, to smooth cut the surface and smooth the edges * I have a piece of steel angle iron for bending the corner * a I measured the first channel based on the size of the cast iron grill I found, and cut off an angle to make it a piece of the top.I then measured and marked the sides, including /-2 "one piece goes back to the first side of the rivet.I moved the line to the side and then marked the 45 degree cut and cut it all out.Once my 45 was cut, I used the steel rules on the edges and marked the inside of the channel I wanted to bend.Since the rule is in the area of the bend itself, my line will end up with a little offset, so I thought about that.I walked along the line inside the passage with a Cold Chisel and gave it a little "pre-bend".Take the time to use a sand tray to smooth the cutting flash and any sharp edges that may bite you later.I stuck the steel horn in the passage, just a bit (/-1/8 ") come back from my bending line and finish the bending with a plastic hammer.I then moved the whole mess to the end of 2x4 and used the ball peen to make it more square than round.I did this twice and then bent the "tongue" to the first.Fix it in the right place, drill it, and then fix it in the right place.Since this will be the top and nesting of the top of the fire box, I put the rivets outside from the inside so that the smooth side of the rivets is inside.Apart from: * I keep both sides of the channel intact, the bottom and top are basically the same.* I measured the side of the small 1/8 so the top slides.I measured and cut a piece of stainless steel sheet on the bottom (it bends up), which turns out to be a good height for the coal grill.I cut the coal grill into a certain size, put the sheets on the bottom and the coal grill in, then clip the tongue on the first side of the base, drill it out, and rivet it together.In this case, the rivets enter from the outside, so the long end is inside and does not interfere with the top sliding down.After drilling the rivets, remove the sand from the internal flash so that the rivet head is flush.Now I have two main parts.Unfortunately, they are not very square, but I was able to put them together and carefully beat them with a ballpeen hammer in the corner of each piece, or make them more square, either let them go together as needed (and then separate...) I measured, marked, and drilled the hole on the top side of the 1/8 "electrode (the welding compound was removed with a point tip at the end) and slid it over the bottom, then drill two holes at each end of the bottom.I used the electrode for different holes to adjust the height, but found it a bit difficult to find the hole opposite.At this point I thought of a tube going through the bottom and guiding the rod into the hole opposite.In the material I collected, I found some 1/4 stainless steel pipes with a slight expansion at one end, so I expanded the hole at the bottom and knocked it in the tube, then cut them almost flat on the other side.Then I took a little bit out of that end with a big pointed punch so it would stay inside.Alignment problem solved!Use a sand tray to check for any exposed sharp edges that may cut you (or someone else) later ).So I have the basic structure now.I realized that I needed the handle and some way to prevent the grill from sliding from the top, so I made the handle from other stainless steel angles.I also cut for the back and raised part of the top passagestop.I think if I do it again, I will nail the rivets in one piece because cutting that part seems to damage the rigidity on that side of the top.I will be fine for sure,....So there it is.I still need to find out some kind of adjustable air door to control the flow of air into the fire box.It may be a rectangular cut (one at each end may be available) with a rivet shutter that can be kept fairly flush so as not to interfere with the top sliding down.I have also added some feet, handles and covers that can be used as a tray to place a barbecue.I had a debate about finishing with a steel wheel brush, but I decided that while this might make the overall finished look better, the smooth stainless steel might be easier to clean.We'll see....I don't know what happens when the weather gets hot or if the metal will adjust to make it difficult to disassemble/adjust, but I still have my trusty hammer......heh heh!So every good barbecue needs a good charcoal chimney.The body is the bottom of the water cooler and the back is the flat metal left on the lid cover.I marked and cut a piece from the grille body of the grille and nailed it right above the ventilation slot of the water dispenser base.I stuffed some newspapers in the base, loaded some dry guava pieces on the top, and lit it.Spent a pile of paper and I had to feed a few more sheets of paper while burning to keep it running.The commercial chimney has a shield between the body and the handle, I just think it's a matter of responsibility, they don't want someone to accidentally touch the body and sue someone, but I realize that the handle does get hot!I may modify it to solve this problem.These are made from a 1/8 "ss arc electrode, removing the coating and then sticking to the drill bit with some sandpaper to clean the rest of the surface.The ring is made by clamping it on a metal rod (in this case a bit), bending it, and then closing the ring with some pliers.Grind the tip end on the grinder to make sure you have eye protection...We have Grill, we have hot coal, we have vegetable skewers, we have delicious burger patties.Let's put it together and see what happens....YUM!I ended up closing the opening on our smoker's "cover" and put some temporary label handles on it.I need to come up with some heat resistant handles as it's a little trick to take this off to check the burger.