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building a competition bbq trailer or food vending trailer

by:Longzhao BBQ     2020-06-14
Sometimes, in life, when it comes to what you want, you have to decide if you have more time or money.
My budget was low at the time, but my desires and desires were strong.
I \'ve thought about buying a trailer to buy one, but I\'m someone who likes to do things for himself, keep it original, and stand out from the crowd.
I think I was able to do this by setting up the LBC BBQ command center.
Share with me my journey of making a contest barbecue or a food vending machine!
To find a trailer that works, I was able to search for Craigslist.
I bought a double axle of 16 feet.
Wooden deck view trailer.
When I purchased my trailer I looked for the following: the only problem with this trailer was the need to change the deck and the back door was rough in shape.
The price was right so I pulled the trigger.
$800 for the trailer.
Replaced the deck for $100. 00 = $900.
00 so far, my original plan was to buy an open-air trailer.
So I replaced the deck with treated wood and dirty it.
In retrospect, this is a step that does not need to happen. (
Because I will choose a heavy trailer now, but when this trailer is in a budget. )
Once I was able to identify a design, I designed it with 4x4 and 2x4.
4x4 together with the side of the trailer is bolted to the floor of the trailer.
I used a side V-
The shape of the front to get extra space for the sink area.
I extended the rear roof to the back of the trailer, creating a roof for the porch.
In addition to making the left side of the trailer roof 3 above the right.
There are two reasons why I do this.
First of all, the water will not be placed on the flat roof, and secondly, the water will not pour into my service window when it rains.
It cost $250 to get the view. 00 = $1,150.
00 so one of the main reasons I want a trailer for the race is so I don\'t have to deal with the weather while washing the dishes.
So this is one area that I am eager to accomplish.
I used the fence dog ear panel on the countertop.
That\'s right. I used $1 processed wood. 00 per.
I framed the counter outside of 2x4 and then covered it with dog ears, cut the sink hole, polished smooth, stained and sealed.
Make sure to fill the gap with wooden putty.
Dog Ear panel for $5. 00 + 2x4\'s $4.
00 remaining stain free polyurethane $8. 00 =$17. 00 / $1,167.
00 so far ** Make sure you have cut the correct size holes for the sink configuration you are using.
I was able to go to my local thrift store and pick up the sink at a very high price. I payed $60.
Both sinks are 00.
Given that they all have work taps, the sink has an extra high tap, and they come out of an old hospital, so they are commercial and in good shape. Both Sinks $60. 00 = $1,227.
00 so far, when starting the pipe work, I suggest you write everything on paper first, then scale according to your project to get the measurement result, and a list of PVC pipes and accessories you need.
If you\'re not sure how to do plumbing, you can get help from professionals in the long run to save you money.
I was able to complete my task without much trouble.
For the entrance, I used a female garden hose joint with a female back and I connected it to a male 1/2 PVC fitting and started the line inside the trailer.
I also added something extra.
Just as there is an extension of the stop valve in front and the idea of increasing the gravity water supply tank.
I also installed a shut-off valve inside the trailer on the main entrance line to be able to control the water pressure or use it as an emergency shut-off valve.
For the discharge line, make sure you are using a PVC pipe of a larger size than the entrance.
If filled, it should be able to handle both sinks at the same time.
Make sure your discharge line is at a good angle and bend and turn as little as possible.
This makes emissions faster and cleaner when used.
I used a 11/2 PVC pipe and I was still on the discharge line but put a stop valve outside the trailer.
PVC pipes and accessories $85. 00 = $1,312.
To make sure there is a safe, well built trailer while driving on the highway, I reinforced my nose with a particle board.
Make sure the weight is or may be a factor when reinforcing or building.
* Make sure that the structure and items to be loaded during use are less than the total maximum weight allowed by the trailer.
$40 particle board. 00 = $1,352.
00 so far, the metal siding was fun but challenging before you mastered it.
Buy a good set of metal scissors and use only self-tapping metal screws with rubber washers.
This will ensure that your trailer does not leak in the weather and is tightly sealed.
Yes, they cost more, but in the long run it will save you the trailer and give you a headache.
Start with the front of the trailer and the side of the top.
Be sure to wear gloves when handling metal siding.
When placing the first siding make sure it is 100% straight and line up for you.
Even a slight deviation can cause trouble when adding future parts with alignment and doing good tight sealing.
Corrugated metal siding for $600.
$450 self-tapping roof screws00 = $1,050. 00 / $2,362.
00 So Far * buy good roof screws and spend money on them!
This is my biggest cost surprise for this building and there is no right budget for me.
Based on the measurements I use, I don\'t need to cut the windows.
I just need to shorten a few.
Then while adding the roof, cut the angle on the side of the rear porch.
When adding a roof, make sure you do not bend, SAG, or damage the panel when placing it.
Don\'t tighten the screws too much.
This will cause a leak if you do so.
Once you \'ve finished both sides and the roof, the next step is to cut some special parts on the nose of the trailer.
I also added extra screws to my nose to ensure a tight fit.
Finally, I added a box with a door cover for the water inlet.
Box with door cover $15. 00 = $2,377.
00, so farThis is a good start time to add insulation to the front nose of the trailer.
I use the attic insulation so it is good in any season and insulated.
It\'s also a good time to start thinking about how to run wires, any cables, overhead lighting positions, and wall socket locations.
Like a water pipe, I suggest you take everything out first.
Think carefully about how you will use the trailer, what equipment you may use, what is the appeal of the amplifier, and where everything will go when using it.
Then make a decision on the placement of the item. Insulation $80. 00 = $2,457.
00 so far, the trailer is covered with corrugated metal sheets, I used foil sealing tape on all the seams to make it waterproof.
For the top of the trailer, I also use the roof tar sealant as another protection step for waterproofing.
Once I put the tape and tar in place, then cover it with a 4 \"x4\" metal \"L\" roof cap.
They work perfectly for the top and bottom of the trailer. Metal \"L\" $35.
00 foil tape $25.
$35 roof tar filler. 00 = $95. 00 / 2,552.
00 first I made some solid windows with 2x4 and metal siding.
I attached them to the window frame with heavy galvanized hinges.
For travel and safety when not in use, I also installed sliding bolt locks on them.
Next, I built some tables and attached them to the wall with hinges.
This allowed me to close the table during my trip and added more space to the loading equipment.
For the table legs, I also put them on the hinges, so when I pull the table up for use, the legs fold down with gravity and immediately in place.
This saves time and space.
Windows costs $85. 00 hinge $45. $75 for table 00. 00 = $205. 00 / $2,757.
00 so far the windows are in place, I sealed them up and added more \"L\" metal trim around the frame outside.
I also added the remaining foil strips to all edges before inserting the trim.
I then closed the top, back, door with metal sheet and hanging screen door.
Once the doors are in place, I decided to cover them with sheet metal to make them stronger.
I made the outside of the door with sheet metal, covered with smooth thin boards, painted it with blackboard paint, and filled it with more insulation.
Silicone sealant $10.
00 $50 screen door.
00 Plyboard $25.
00 blackboard paint $12.
$45 sheet metal.
00 insulation $25. 00 = $167. 00 / $2,924.
Warning! ! !
If you\'re not an electrician or know an electrician. Hire one!
You may get hurt or die from electric shock.
Also, if you do not install the power properly, you will be at risk of fire and/or electric shock.
Please pay attention to safety and don\'t feel sorry for the accident that happened!
I have some knowledge of the wires, but in this step I have also used the advice of an electrician friend.
I started with a 4 circuit fuse box mounted under the front countertop.
I feed the main plug to the outside for an electrical connection to shore or generator (if using one).
Then I put the two circuits on one side of the trailer.
This is what I do, so if I turn on the breaker, the side of the trailer will be powered off.
If added, I use a third circuit breaker for future AC units, the last circuit, I use for external porch plugs and external lighting.
This creates four areas for my trailer.
I also added more circuit overload protection to the GFI for each breaker.
Ensure all wires and circuits are marked for future repairs and services.
It is also good to keep the wiring schematic, so you can troubleshoot if there is a problem.
$75 breaker case.
00 wire $100.
The price of 00 circuit boxes, sockets, GFI and sockets is $95. 00 = $270. 00 / $3,194.
This is by far the most time consuming work on the trailer.
Cutting, installing and tightening all the inner walls and roof panels is a fairly important job.
Take your time.
Make sure all wires are in good position and do not curl or cut when installing the panel.
I hung up a closet to give me extra storage.
I then hang all the panels on all the light fixtures and wall sockets in the intended location, leaving space or cutting holes.
I then added insulation to the walls and ceiling to protect the weather from outside factors.
Next, I added a shelf to the sink area and put the LED lighting below to illuminate the countertop.
I also use LED lights on the ceiling to achieve low voltage.
$200 sheet metal.
$160 for lighting equipment.
00 storage cabinet $85.
The price on the counter is $35. 00 = $480. 00 / $3674.
For the floor, I decided to use the horse stand.
This is a good choice for a few reasons.
Before I installed the floor mat, I covered the ground floor with a waterproof cloth.
This is used to isolate the floor from the elements outside, and the effect is very good.
At the beginning of the project, I chose to replace the floor with pressure treated wood so that I could rinse the floor mat down with a water pipe without worrying about damaging the floor.
I clean the floor by raising the front of the trailer to create a downhill run for the water.
Then I wiped the mat and sprayed it.
The water ran out of the back and everything was cleaned up.
The horse stall cushion is $125. 00 + Tarp $25. 00 = $150. 00 / $3824.
00 so farTo brought some storage and I went with the adjustable wire rack.
I installed a shelf on each side table.
After the installation, I installed an eye hook on each side and ran an adjustable strap from start to finish to make sure the items on the shelves were safe while traveling.
I also installed a short frame to store the tray at the top and hang the pot at the bottom.
Wire rack $75.
00 $5 eye hook.
00 Ratchet Belt $12. 00 = $92. 00 / $3,916.
00, so the original tailgate shape is rough and too short for what I want to do with it.
I removed the old door and had a metal manufacturer make one according to my specifications.
When I set it up in the race, I want to use the gate as a back porch, also want to use the ramp to enter the trailer for loading and unloading, as a locked safety door when placed in the up position to travel or store.
I then added a garage door spring to the gate to offset the weight, making it easier to lift.
I also had my manufacturer add a stable Jack to the four corners of the trailer.
This increases the stability of the trailer when it is parked and used.
The newly manufactured door is $300.
Garage door spring $35.
00 stable Jack $125. 00 = $460. 00 / $4,376.
00 so farI added a portable water heater to the outside of the trailer for more comfort.
While doing the plumbing work, I left a hole in the front of the bottom of the trailer to get back and forth to the water pipe.
I put the water heater outside the trailer to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning.
Water heater $135. 00 = $4511.
To make my trailer more like a home away from home, I added some luxury items.
First of all, I added a portable air conditioning device to cool down during the hot summer.
I also added two TV monitors.
One I use on my laptop screen.
This allows me to watch movies and work online.
I used the monitoring system I installed outside for the second time.
I can watch my smokers at work, watch movies or try to sleep for a while in the game.
The weather system is great for an early warning system that can monitor the current condition of the weather in real time.
I used a toolbox and put it under the counter and a couple of plastic storage drawers. A/C Unit $350.
$250 for two TV sets
00 monitoring system $200.
00 weather stations $45
00 work cabinet $130.
00 knife station 80. 00 = $1,055. 00 / $5,566.
At the end of the day I really enjoyed making my BBQ trailer.
It takes about 4 months to work 4 to 5 hours a day.
I\'m sure I\'m missing something, so please ask if you have any questions about my building.
The biggest surprise in the building was how many screws it spent.
In addition to hanging the internal panel, this is also one of the most time-consuming work.
Will I do it again? I think I will.
I was really happy to build it, and now I know something I will do differently, something I will not do again.
The final total was $5,566.
00 this amount seems to be a bit low and I believe I bought something and I forgot to add it here so I guess the more realistic amount is $6,000. 00 to $7,000.
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